Today, Our first in Rome, came early. After a long nine hour flight from my connection in Chicago, and very little sleep, it was time to visit the Pope's palace, at 8 am. Nothing like starting off with the most extravagant and extensive collection of antiquities and priceless paintings first thing! The Vatican and it's amazing museum is indeed beyond description with the priceless abundance of frescoes, sculptures, and enormous tapestries, some dating back many years B.C. and several pieces circa 15th century. The weather, here is somewhat humid and warm so in the confines of the museum it was stifling at times. However, we still enjoyed the beauty of the Raphael's and Michelangelo paintings adorning the walls and ceilings throughout. Each one more stunning than the next. It was wonderful to have a guide who brought the stories of the paintings to life. I was not aware that it took twenty five years to clean the walls and ceiling in the 500 year old Sistine chapel.
I was also unaware that every time the papal conclave takes place there is a potbelly stove installed at one end of the chapel and the various cardinals, who participate in electing the Pope, must stay inside until the final decision is made. I got to thinking that no wonder the ceilings got dirty with all the soot from the stove over the years. Perhaps, on one or more occasions, that stove's flue was accidentally left closed causing smoke to fill the room and dirty the walls. But as most know the smoke, piped up through a round transom window, gives the waiting public the signal of when a new Pope has been elected. Imagine the cardinals, tired from usual church duties, welcomed the retreat to possibly have a little wine, "play a few hands of poker" ( they just color the cards white for yes, black for no) and tossing the bad hand into the stove and one by one until the most clever guy wins the final hand and it is time to finally stop playing games and decide! Just speculating!
Then it was on to the grandest church of all, St Peter's Basilica. The size is overwhelming with endless alcoves, ceilings reaching to the heavens, and more marble adorning the floors, columns, walls than I have ever seen before. In addition, there were yet more sculptures and sarcophagus placed thoughtfully throughout. I began to wonder how many hundreds of quarries it took to complete this church. Then we also wondered how many slaves and skilled laborers it took to bring this all to fruition.
After a pizza lunch and a nap, we took off walking through town to the Spanish Steps where expensive shops line the streets. There we found a wonderful restaurant with delicious salads, ravioli, chicken in lemon sauce, and white wine. Any thought that I'd loose weight on this trip quickly vanished with the taste of the olive oil, pasta, pizza, breads, wine, and most importantly, the gelato. I am learning the language quickly. Words that are most important are definitely gratzie, per favore, olivo, vino, and gelato!
One important point for future travelers, especially women, bring a small, nearly empty suitcase packed with only one or two changes of clothes or maybe just underwear. There are street vendors on every corner selling lovely hand bags, darling blouses and dresses, and slacks. Why not buy a couple fun things here at ridiculously inexpensive prices and have just the right outfit for the city and the weather. Even the chic stores have unusually reasonable stylish clothing that would be fun to bring back home. It seems like the whole of Rome is on sale and I am charmed with the history, the Michelangelo nudes, the handsome men, and stylish beautiful women with long bare legs who strut down the streets in 5 & 6 inch heels.
Tomorrow we are shopping at the famous outdoor market to gather a bunch of fruit and possibly even have breakfast from one of the vendors. Yesterday we did find a small but adequate grocery store where we found delicious wine for 2.50 euros, creamy brie, silky Greek yogurt and roasted chicken which combined made into a tasty dinner for weary travelers. Our apartment is perfect, our host a doll and the driver she hired for us was perfection on wheels. We could not have found a better location for twice the price.
Tonight we work off our jet lag with some much needed sleep. There are many more miles yet to walk and many more sights to be discovered. I am overjoyed to be sharing this experience with my daughter, her partner Chandy, and Sebastian, and my friends Carol and Rosie. In addition to all we have planned tomorrow, there will be an evening birthday celebration for Sebastian, who, with his long blond curls, and dimpled cheek could easily have been a model for one of Raphael's Michelangelo's cherubic figures. It is hard to believe this jungle boy is already three!
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