Having previously traveled to Florence and Venice I looked forward to experiencing these two cities again (11 years later) and showing them to my daughter and her family. Sometimes it really is good to set memories of a place aside and try to see what new things can be discovered when you return. Sometimes it is better not to return and just enjoy the memories!
On September 16th we left Casperia by taxi van and headed to Florence where we would stay for four nights. We opted to stay in in a charming village 20 minutes above Florence called Fiesole. It was an easy 20 minute bus ride into the madness of the big city but seemed like we'd stepped back into another time and space when we were there. Much of Fiesole's history predates Florence as this was where, in the 900's people settled and a government was established. There are still remnants of a coliseum, Roman baths, and a museum full of antiquities found buried here. The town is small, hilly and full of charm. It is easy to get to know the friendly inhabitants and everything travelers like us needed was within a few steps of our lodging. Five adults and one energetic three year old boy stayed comfortably in a three bedroom, two bath, Air BnB home, owned by a charming woman of Casa Sofia who made every effort to see that we were happy and comfortable. When we couldn't find a taxi to get to the train station for Venice, our host drove us there and refused any renumeration!
In this quaint village there is a laundromat and fruit and veggie stand two steps from our front door. There is also a grocery store one block away. Within a couple of blocks we could find gelato, yummy pizza, delicious dinners, and a sumptuous, hard to resist bakery. Every Saturday there is a group of people who put up stands to sell their wares in the town square. Fresh fish, being cleaned while you wait, whole chickens, cheese, and fruits can be purchased there along with antique bells, door knockers, clothing, and lamps to name just a few items. It was very pleasant to return from several hours in the big city to this much cooler less crowded town.
We were only there for four nights and on the third night Page got Sebastian's hair professionally cut for the first time. The fact that his long blond curls were gone did not go unnoticed by several of the locals and shopkeepers who came out to lament over the loss of his sweet curls as he charged by each open door. Many thought He was a girl until the until the curls were gone. I must admit both looks suit Sebastian well. I am sure it won't be long after he returns to Nosara that the curls will reappear. Once a surfer dude, always a surfer dude!
As for Florence, well let me just say that my memories of the fair city are far grander than I found it the second time around. The Duomo is still gigantic and overwhelming in size but it's beauty is covered with years of a black soot like substance that mars the vivid colors of the green and pink marble. In an effort to clean the outside, large portions are covered in scaffolding and cloth. The Pontevecchio was not nearly as picturesque as I'd remembered and in the heat of the day, with crowds so thick you couldn't move, it was difficult to find much I wanted to do except wander away and find the #7 bus back to Fiesole. One day Page treated us to a carriage ride through the town where sights were pointed out. Then we had a wonderful lunch and afterward Page and Seb. headed back for a nap while I wandered the back streets until I found a very enjoyable Di Vinci exhibit that had only a handful of people wandering through.
Then, to return to the bus stop, I made my way down the streets that have all the high end shops. Because they were nearly empty and free of crowds, it was easy to navigate freely. Florence is the home of too many to name fancy Italian fashion labels that are lovely to look at but, ridiculously expensive and beyond my tastes indulge. When I was in Florence 11 yrs ago, I don't remember seeing as many leather stands, kitchy souvenir shops, and stores that we have at home. Back then, to me at least, Florence was a city packed with history, delightful statues, fountains, and grand churches with beautiful facades. Now, as you push past crowds, and everything leather, and locals on cell phones, with the musical sound of their voices, it seemed so reminiscent of Latin masses I heard as a teen visiting catholic churches, just grander and with the smell of leather instead of inscents.
Venice is a city worth visiting twice but, now that I have, I find it is unnecessary to return ever again. The canals are still grand, getting lost on winding narrow streets was fun again, and seeing Page and her family enjoy it was wonderful. But again, like Florence, it is all about tourism, selling goods, filling blocks and streets with shops filled with things ranging from touristy junk to high end fancy stuff with the same pushing crush of crowds. St. Marks church in San Marcos square was massive and grand as all the churches in Italy seem to be. It is amazing to see the undulating marble floors that seem to endure yearly floods and yet still feel solid and strong. We did a lot of hopping on and off the water taxi's and Page treated her honey and son to a gondola ride that they loved. Carol and I visited The Gugganheim museum where Peggy lived for many years, courted gondoliers and artists, and buried all her much loved little dogs. Arrivederci Venice, Gratzie for NEW memories!
It has been lovely exploring Italy again. I have visited places I've never been, fallen in love with Rome all over again, and discovered that sometimes it is best to just enjoy fond memories and skip places I have already been!
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