The rain in France, Spain and Portugal stays mainly... where ever we go! To say we've been traveling under a spell would be putting it mildly! When last I wrote I was in Paris having spent a delightful, yet painful day walking the streets and wondering how I might continue seeing this marvelous city with my unpredictable feet. Much has happened since that day that would put me just short of bargaining with the weather Gods for the return of that foot pain for a Sunny day! Floods, power outages, total Internet collapse, and being stranded only begins to describe the story that unfolded once I left Paris behind....But, back to happier times, relief from foot pain, and the exploration of Paris!
Even with the promise of fall and chilly overcast skies greeting us on the second day in Paris, nothing could keep us from another day of exploration. First stop, The Conciergerie. Sounds so pretty doesn't it but this is where, between the years of 1793-1795, over three thousand Parisians were put on trial, given their last meal, (if they were lucky) and in a matter of hours or days, and without any recourse, were beheaded for crimes that were mostly unfounded. In those years, called "The reign of terror," rumors, jealously, and spite, could condemn intellectuals, successful businessmen, and even a princess. Marie Antoinette made the list of famous people who had an untimely final appointment with the guillotine. It is rumored that she met a particularly gruesome death with a dull blade in the hands of a spiteful executioner.
From that most sobering,"delightful" place we visited Notre Dame, a very impressive gargoyle adorned church made even more famous by Victor Hugo's story. It took no stretch of the imagination to conjure up scenes from 1492 due to the very impressive Gothic exterior and the current foreboding darkness of the afternoon sky. Apparently Hugo wrote the story in an attempt to showcase the beautiful Gothic buildings of Paris that were often torn down in favor of more modern ones.
Feeling quite chilled, and seeking shelter from the sunless brisk windy day, we found a Trip Advised restaurant where for about 12€ one could have a delicious three course lunch that included a glass of wine. This delightful cafe had all the trappings of what any yank would imagine a Parisian cafe would look like. Warmed by the charm of our waitress, the tea, white wine, and delicious meal, we listened to conversations in French, observed the local fashions, and talked about our prospects for the afternoon sight seeing adventures.
Fully sated, we skirted around the wind blown leaves and a bit of trash to hop on the metro for the Palais Garnier Opera house. As luck would have it, due to the opening of La Traviata, the place was closed to tourist. But noting the upscale area, we decided to do just a bit of window shopping. It is hard not to drool over windows adorned with Cartier jewels or Versace clothes, both places very heavily guarded from within. Nothing says "pedestrians" are not welcome like a couple of well dressed unsmiling thugs.
However, we were drawn into the Benetton shop to try on the warm, feather weight, down infused coats on sale. Unable to pass up a bargain and the promise of warmth, we wore our new purchases into the street and jumped on the metro in search of Montemarte and the Sacre Coeur. But, of course, no sooner did we begin the 100+ stair climb to reach the hilltop than the clouds parted and the heat of the sun returned making us laugh in light of our recent purchase. Montemarte was worth the trek with lovely views, beautiful church, and interesting characters mingling around the steps. I tried to imagine the steps and lawns being frequented by the likes of Dali, Monet, Picasso, or Van Gogh. Unfortunately, we couldn't linger long with the return of clouds and promise of rain. It was time to put our coats back on, find another meal, and make our way back to the warmth of our apartment.
Our third full day in Paris involved the two biggest tourist sights. The warm sun improved our spirits and made for a delightful tour that included having lunch at the Eiffel Tower, tour of the city by bus, where we finally toured the opera house, and a late afternoon, sunset cruise of the Seine which ended with a beautiful light show from the Eiffel set off by the purple-pink cloud painted backdrop. It was a fresh canvas inspiration that would have delighted any of the great masters of Monet's time.
Our Fourth and final day began with a visit to Versailles, a place I have longed to see for many years. It did not disappoint with the magnificent gardens that go on for miles. One could not miss the sound of gun fire in the nearby wooded area where dove hunters are allowed to bag their limit. Then there's the enormous palace ornately adorned with gold leaf. In every room there were numerous larger than life painted scenes. The "piece de resistance" was one enourmous room with floor to ceiling mirrors and numerous gigantic, sparkely chandeliers. This is where king Louis the 14th and 15th could greet their guests and where the elite could see and be seen, from every angle! This one time weekend palatial hunting retreat would have even made Donald Trump blush due the overly appointed opulence.
After a few hours we broke free from the crowds, that jostled and pushed their way through the rooms of the Palace. We walked into the tiny town for lunch at a quiet Indian restaurant. Then ended the day with one last attempt to visit Muse d' Orange only to be disappointed by the long lines and quickly approaching closing time.
All good things do come to an end. It was time to pack and head off in different directions, Carol to the sanity of home in San Marcos with the promise of her own very comfortable bed, and me to a fast train that would take me to the Cote Azur in the south of France. I was excited to explore Cannes, Monaco, and other fancy towns I'd always heard about or viewed in the movies. I was also anxious to step into the welcoming arms of my gentleman friend that was joining me for the next two months of adventures. Little did I expect, from the amazing comfort of my first class train car, the difficulties that would greet us and challenge our resolve to remain on European soil.
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